viskóza sója

Soy Viscose – also known as soy fiber or “plant cashmere” – is one of the most interesting innovations in sustainable textile materials. This polysynthetic material is produced from protein extracted from soybeans, specifically from waste generated during the production of soybean oil or tofu. Soy fiber combines the properties of both natural and synthetic fibers and is valued for its exceptional softness, which has earned it the nickname “vegetable cashmere” or “soy silk”. History of Soy Fiber Origins and Henry Ford The history of soy fiber has fascinating roots dating back to the 1930s. A major role in its development was played by the legendary Henry Ford of Ford Motor Company, who is considered the inventor of soy fiber. Ford had a vision of connecting agriculture with industry within his philosophy called “chemurgy”. In 1938, Ford wore a soy-wool tie, reportedly his favorite gift for his 75th birthday. In 1941, Ford was photographed wearing the first known soy suit and tie, made from a blend of soy “wool” and sheep’s wool. Around 1940, he built a pilot plant for the production of soy “wool” with a capacity of 1,000 pounds per day, and a blended material containing 25% soy “wool” and 75% sheep’s wool was used as upholstery for the side panels in many Ford cars. Wartime period and decline The use of soy fiber in the automotive industry continued until World War II, when soy fiber became a “casualty of war” and was replaced by newer, cheaper synthetic fibers such as nylon. Despite Ford’s efforts to popularize soy fiber in the United States, the project had a short lifespan due to wartime events. Modern renaissance A breakthrough came in 1999 when engineers announced a new method of producing soy fiber that was significantly cheaper and more efficient. By 2003, this new production method achieved global success. In 2003, the development of this process was awarded the Gold Medal of the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). This renaissance in the early 2000s resulted from growing interest in more sustainable natural fibers. Manufacturing Process Raw material preparation Soy fiber is produced from waste generated during the production of soybean oil, tofu, or soy milk, which would otherwise be discarded. This process represents an effort to move textile production away from petrochemical-based fibers and convert waste into useful products. Technological process The production of soy fiber is an advanced process involving several key steps: Degreasing: Soybeans are defatted by pressing or solvent extraction Separation: Protein is extracted from soybean meal using alkaline extraction and acid precipitation Drying: Spray drying at temperatures of 160–170°C Spinning: Wet spinning similar to other wet-spun fibers, divided into two phases – preparation of a slurry and spinning with subsequent processing First, protein is extracted and refined from the meal, then its molecular structure is modified using additives and biological enzymes, forming a protein spinning solution with high polymers. Finally, the solution is heated and processed via wet spinning to produce fibers of 0.9–3.0 dtex, which are stabilized by acetalization and then cut into staple fibers after crimping and heat setting. Properties of Soy Fiber Physical characteristics Soy fiber has exceptional properties that make it attractive for the textile industry: Fineness: 0.9–3.0 dtex Color: Naturally light yellow, similar to silk Luster: Silky appearance with exceptional shine Density: Similar to cotton Strength: Higher than wool, silk, and cotton Comfort properties Soy fiber is characterized by excellent comfort features: Softness: Silky texture with a “skin-to-skin” feel Lightweight: Very light and airy material Breathability: High breathability and moisture transport Moisture absorption: Comparable to cotton but with better wicking Thermoregulation: Keeps warm like wool but cools in summer Special properties Soy fiber also has unique characteristics: Antibacterial effects: Natural antimicrobial properties UV protection: Resistance to ultraviolet radiation 16 amino acids: Contains skin-beneficial amino acids Hypoallergenic: Suitable for sensitive skin Non-shrinking: Does not shrink during washing Applications in the Textile Industry Apparel industry Soy fiber is widely used in various clothing categories: Summer clothing: Blouses, tops, skirts, dresses due to cooling properties Luxury garments: Suits, coats, evening dresses Sportswear: Due to breathability and moisture management Children’s clothing: Because of hypoallergenic properties Underwear: Due to softness and comfort Blended applications Soy fiber is often blended with other fibers to improve performance: With cotton: High-count yarns for fine knitwear With silk: Maintains silk’s luster and drape while improving absorbency With wool: Reduces shrinkage and improves care properties With cashmere: Enhances smoothness and ease of maintenance Home textiles In home textiles, soy fiber is used for: Upholstery Bed linens Blankets and pillows Carpets and mats Advantages and disadvantages Main advantages Eco-friendly: Made from soy industry waste Biodegradable: Fully compostable Easy care: Machine washable Anti-pilling: Does not form pills Safe: Oeko-Tex certified Limitations Lower strength compared to cotton or hemp Weak elastic recovery (55.4% vs 70–80% for other fibers) Low crimp stability Requires anti-slip additives during spinning due to low cohesion Environmental aspects Sustainability Soy fiber is considered one of the most ecological textile materials: Renewable resource (soy is easily cultivated) Uses industrial food waste Faster biodegradation than petroleum-based products Minimal environmental impact (can be grown without pesticides) Comparison with other materials Compared to traditional materials, soy fiber: Uses less water than cotton Produces fewer greenhouse gases than polyester Is cheaper and more accessible than cashmere Is cruelty-free compared to silk